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"Let our puppies leave an impression on your heart"
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Important information about your new puppy |
Your puppy will receive at least the first two sets of puppy vaccinations prior to it's shipment to you. Depending on the age of the puppy when it is shipped it also may have received additional vaccinations The puppy has also been wormed at least 3 times. Your Pomeranian will come with an individualized health record from us detailing the dates and types of vaccines and wormers that have been administered. Please take a copy of this record to your vet at your first puppy check so they can recommend a future vaccination and worming schedule.
All puppies will be seen by a licensed veterinarian and will have a health certificate prior to shipping. In order to receive this health certificate we will need your legal name, address and phone number where you can be reached the day of shipment as these items are necessary for the health certificate.
There are many puppy diseases and parasites out in the
world that a young puppy is susceptible to. They can
be picked up anywhere. Many of which like parvo can
even be brought in on the soles of your shoes! Prior
to your puppy receiving ALL 4 sets of puppy shots, NEVER,
NEVER set a young puppy down on the ground or on counter
tops in public! Your own yard is fine as long as strange
dogs do not have free access to it. Never let strangers
handle your puppy.
Do not let your puppy have contact with strange dogs.
It is recommended that you don't even take you puppy
out in public until they are fully vaccinated. Also
make sure all visitors to your house wash their hands
prior to handling you new ball of fur. Remember even
vaccinated dogs are susceptible to certain diseases
and parasites, make sure to follow your vets recommendations
to limit their risk.
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While in our care your
Pomeranian puppy was free fed (available at all times)Royal
Canin Mini puppy dry food. This
food can be purchased at most quality pet food stores.
You can click on the photo to read more about this food.
DO NOT change your brand of food abruptly.
If a change of food is required, mix the Royal
Canin Mini Puppy dog food with your new brand for
at least a week, gradually increasing the amount of
the new brand until the switch is made. Promptly treat
any signs of loose bowels (which can be a sign that
the new food is not being tolerated well) in the manner
recommended by your vet. If you choose to switch to
a different brand make sure and READ THE INGREDIENTS
LABEL!!! Many inferior and some high end dog foods are
loaded with ingredients you don't want your dog eating!
Make sure you know what the ingredients are on the ingredient
list. Dogs are omnivores and are designed to eat a balanced
diet which can include corn or vegetable produces but
their main diet should be meat based. Also know what
kind of meat you are getting, if they don't tell you
what kind of animal the meat came from it could be anything.
High quality food will typically have lamb, chicken
or beef as their main ingredient. Chicken or lamb tends
to be easier to digest, but the others are ok too. Most
low end and even name brand dog food is mostly corn
and other bi-products your new Pomeranian needs the
maximum nutrition available. Never feed a generic brand
food or one that does not bear the AAFCO
(Association of American Feed Control Officials)
seal of approval.
Provide your Pomeranian with high quality food and water
at all times. Also make sure they are actually EATING
their food! Your Pom should eat small amounts of food
throughout the day and take frequent rest periods. It
is also important to provide a quiet, out of the way
place where your Pomeranian can rest. Make sure not
to overtire a small dog and watch your Pomeranian closely
if it has not been eating like it should. Do not give
your Pom too many treats as this could cause it to go
off its food. An occasional tidbit is ok, but do not
make it a habit of feeding people food or treats. Treats
and table scraps are not formulated for optimum nutrition.
Table scraps usually contain way too much salt, sugar
and preservatives to be healthy for a dog. An entire
diet of canned food is also not recommended because
it can have detrimental effects on the health of the
teeth. Toy breeds are known to have a high incidence
of dental disease.
If you must feed a soft food, make sure your Pom has
regular veterinary dental care and brush its teeth daily
and provide plenty of chew toys. Toys are also very
necessary for puppies when they are teething. If they
don't have toys to chew on they will find something
else! Long skinny rawhide chews are great for toy breeds
with small mouths. These seem to be the only ones that
small dogs can get all the way to their back teeth.
If your puppy has been eating a specialized diet while in our care we will provide you with more detailed information on the care of your new puppy.
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Hypoglycemia
(low blood sugar) |
Hypoglycemia is the
medical term for low blood sugar. A Hypoglycemic attack
is somewhat similar to human diabetic low blood sugar
attack. Because of the Pomeranians small size and high-energy
requirements, the Pom just like all toy breeds is predisposed
to episodes of hypoglycemia or low blood sugar. This
is especially a concern in the very small, tea-cup or
pocket Pomeranians especially during times of illness
or stress. Stress can be caused by entering a new environment
(such as changing homes), during excessive traveling,
change of diet or any major change in the Poms daily
routine. Hypoglycemia tends to occur at night or very
early morning hours, however, it can occur at any time.
Hypoglycemia can be recognized by a dog or puppy suddenly
becoming weak, listless, and confused or unaware of
its surroundings. The Pomeranian may be unable to walk
without stumbling or may not be able to stand up at
all. The gums will appear pale and the eyes will look
dazed. As symptoms progress untreated, the Pom may go
into convulsions, seizures, and coma followed by death.
Repetitive late stage hypoglycemia episodes can lead
to brain damage or sudden death. Hypoglycemia progresses
quickly so it is vital that all toy breed owners be
familiar with it symptoms. At the first signs of Hypoglycemia,
you MUST administer some form of glucose. Nutri-Cal
or Karo syrup are the most popular form of glucose used.
Nutri-Cal in very inexpensive (less than $10 a tube)
and can be found at all major pet retail stores such
as Petsmart. We recommend that ALL new Pomeranian owners
buy a tube of Nutri-Cal to have in case of emergencies.
THIS COULD SAVE YOUR POMERANIANS LIFE!!! If you find
your Pom in a Hypoglycemic attack administer Nutri-Cal
IMEDIATELY DO NOT TAKE THE TIME TO CALL THE VET FIRST!!!
If the Pom is unconscious, immediately rub the glucose
(Nutri-cal, Karo syrup, even pancake syrup) on it gums
and under it’s tongue. Let us repeat DO NOT TAKE THE
TIME TO CALL YOUR VET UNTIL AFTER administering
some form of glucose. The Pomeranian should respond
quickly to treatment, especially when glucose is administered
in the early stages of an attack. Even if your Pom appears
fine after receiving the glucose, it is important that
you contact your vet as complications can occur. After
your dog has sufficiently recovered from the attack
it is important to offer your Pom some high protein
food. Such as beef (human) baby food, banana yogurt
baby food, or some other easily digested high protein
food. We recommend monitoring your puppy for at least
30 minutes after a hypoglycemic attack. Hypoglycemia
is usually preventable. Provide your Pomeranian with
high quality food and water at all times. Also make
sure they are actually EATING their food! We highly
recommend Royal Canin Mini Puppy dry dog food. Your
Pom should eat small amounts of food throughout the
day and take frequent rest periods. It is also important
to provide a quiet, out of the way place where your
Pomeranian can rest. Make sure not to overtire a small
dog and watch your Pomeranian closely if it has not
been eating like it should. DO NOT change your brand
of food abruptly. If a change of food is required, mix
the old brand with the new for at least a week, gradually
increasing to amount of the new brand until the switch
is made. Promptly treat any signs of loose bowels (which
can be a sign that the new food is not being tolerated
well) in the manner recommended by your vet. Do not
give your Pom too many treats as this could cause it
to go off its high protein food.
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The most important aspect of dog training is to reward or praise you puppy every time she does the right thing! For example: praise her when she chews on her own toys instead of the couch or eliminates outside instead of in the house. The more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker and easier it will be to train her.
House training is the number one concern for many new puppy owners. There are many different ways to accomplish this task. All of them require persistence on your part. Remember your puppy is like a small child learning to use the toilet and they will have accidents sometimes. There are 100's of books, DVD's and even private trainers to help you have success teaching your puppy. Choose the best method that works for your family and lifestyle. With all methods remember that young puppies cannot hold their bladder for long periods of time so if you are regularly required to be away for any length of time choose a method such as litter box training, puppy pads or use a doggie door so your puppy can relieve itself without you letting him out.
One of the easiest ways to house train you puppy is to use the crate training method. The crate can be either plastic or wire. The crate your puppy was shipped in will work fine, however many people prefer collapsible wire crates that allow more air flow. These crates are readily available and sell for less than $50 The crate needs to be small, only large enough for your puppy's bed. If the crate is too large the puppy will sleep on one end and eliminate on the other. Many of the wire crates now come with adjustable dividers that expand as your puppy grows. The key to house training is to establish a routine that increases the chances that your puppy will eliminate in the right place in your presence, so that she can be praised and rewarded; and decreases the chances that your dog will eliminate in the wrong place so that she will not develop bad habits.
Crate training is so efficient because dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate.
If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released, i.e., she eliminates in the right place and when you are present to reward and praise her.
Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home such as in a bathroom or kitchen is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite. Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to the appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times. Eventually your entire house becomes "off limits" and she learns to only relieve herself outside.
Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process could be set back several weeks.
Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out immediately take her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce. If she does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty.
During this crate training procedure, keep notes as to when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house. About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your notes) put her in her crate. This will prevent her from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.
If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to develop bladder and bowel control.
Again remember it is important that you make provisions for your dog when you are not home. Until your puppy is older and completely housetrained, she should not be allowed free run of your house. Otherwise, she will develop a habit of leaving piles and puddles anywhere and everywhere, especially on the absorbent carpet. Confine her to a small area such as a kitchen, bathroom or utility room that has water/stain resistant floors.
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Somewhere between about 3-8 months old most pomeranians go through a hair coat change that is lovingly referred to as the "Puppy Uglies" This is when they shed their baby hair  fluff and get in their adult hair. Puppies tend to look straggly or shaggy. They may look leggy and disproportionate. They might look awkward and be clumsy. Don't worry it is absolutely normal! This is their adolescent stage and their hormones are raging. The puppy is experiencing a change similar to what teenage girls and boys do during puberty. By the time the pup is between 9-18 months old he or she will have a thick full coat again which is usually even fuller and more fluffy than before! Adult Poms may also have a similar coat change at various times in their lives. If you don't spay your female you can expect to see this coat shedding after her heat cycles and especially after having puppies when her hormones are surging. Click HERE to see some photos of some puppies going thru and past the puppy uglies. Some Poms just fly through the "uglies" and you will hardly notice a change (usually during winter months) but most will go through the uglies. Take some photos of the "ugly duckling" and wait for the "swan" to appear!
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This is ONLY A ROUGH GUIDE!!!
Puppies like people have varying grow spurts, some are
smaller when they are young and grow larger later, the
reverse is also true. Eating or fasting right before weighing
can also alter the results. Don't obsess over your puppy's
weight, and don't try and make your puppy stay smaller
by limiting food. They will become malnourished but grow
anyway.
To use this chart first weight your puppy and convert pounds to ounces if necessary remember 1 pound =16 ounces. Then find the age of your puppy on the left. Follow the line along horizontally until you find your puppy's current weight next follow that line vertically to the bottom of the chart where an approximate adult weight is given. For example; a 10 week old puppy current weighs 2.2 lbs
(conversion 16 X 2 + 2 = 34 ounces), it is estimated to be 5.5 pounds as an adult
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Birth |
2.5oz |
2.75oz |
3.0oz |
3.5oz |
4.0oz |
4.25oz |
4.5oz |
5.0oz |
5.5oz |
6.0oz |
6.5oz |
1 wk |
3.75oz |
4.0oz |
5.0oz |
5.5oz |
6.5oz |
7.0oz |
8.0oz |
9.0oz |
9.5oz |
10.5oz |
11.0oz |
2wks |
5.0oz |
5.5oz |
6.5oz |
7.0oz |
9.0oz |
10.0oz |
11.0oz |
12.5oz |
13.5oz |
14.5oz |
16.0oz |
3wks |
6.0oz |
7.0oz |
8.0oz |
9.0oz |
11.0oz |
13.0oz |
14.0oz |
16.0oz |
17.5oz |
18.5oz |
20.0oz |
4wks |
7.0oz |
8.0oz |
9.5oz |
11.0oz |
13.0oz |
15.0oz |
17.0oz |
19.5oz |
21.0oz |
23.0oz |
24.0oz |
5wks |
8.0oz |
9.0oz |
11.0oz |
13.0oz |
15.0oz |
17.0oz |
19.0oz |
22.0oz |
24.0oz |
26.0oz |
29.0oz |
6wks |
9.0oz |
11.0oz |
12.0oz |
15.0oz |
17.5oz |
20.0oz |
22.0oz |
24.0oz |
27.0oz |
30.0oz |
32.0oz |
7wks |
10.0oz |
12.0oz |
14.5oz |
17.0oz |
19.5oz |
22.0oz |
24.0oz |
27.0oz |
30.0oz |
33.0oz |
35.0oz |
8wks |
11.0oz |
13.0oz |
16.0oz |
19.0oz |
21.5oz |
24.0oz |
27.0oz |
29.0oz |
33.0oz |
36.0oz |
39.0oz |
9wks |
12.0oz |
15.0oz |
17.5oz |
20.0oz |
23.0oz |
26.0oz |
29.0oz |
32.0oz |
35.0oz |
39.0oz |
42.0oz |
10wks |
13.0oz |
16.0oz |
19.0oz |
22.0oz |
25.0oz |
28.0oz |
31.0oz |
34.0oz |
38.0oz |
41.0oz |
45.0oz |
11wks |
14.0oz |
17.0oz |
21.0oz |
24.0oz |
27.0oz |
31.0oz |
34.0oz |
37.0oz |
42.0oz |
45.0oz |
49.0oz |
12wks |
15.0oz |
19.0oz |
22.0oz |
26.0oz |
30.0oz |
33.0oz |
37.0oz |
41.0oz |
45.0oz |
49.0oz |
53.0oz |
13wks |
16.0oz |
20.0oz |
24.0oz |
28.0oz |
32.0oz |
36.0oz |
40.0oz |
44.0oz |
49.0oz |
53.0oz |
57.0oz |
14wks |
17.0oz |
22.0oz |
26.0oz |
30.0oz |
34.0oz |
39.0oz |
43.0oz |
47.0oz |
52.0oz |
56.0oz |
60.0oz |
15wks |
19.0oz |
23.0oz |
28.0oz |
32.0oz |
37.0oz |
41.0oz |
46.0oz |
51.0oz |
56.0oz |
61.0oz |
66.0oz |
16wks |
20.0oz |
25.0oz |
30.0oz |
34.0oz |
39.0oz |
44.0oz |
49.0oz |
54.0oz |
59.0oz |
65.0oz |
70.0oz |
17wks |
21.0oz |
26.0oz |
31.0oz |
36.0oz |
41.0oz |
46.0oz |
51.0oz |
57.0oz |
62.0oz |
67.0oz |
72.0oz |
18wks |
22.0oz |
28.0oz |
33.0oz |
37.0oz |
43.0oz |
48.0oz |
54.0oz |
60.0oz |
65.0oz |
71.0oz |
76.0oz |
19wks |
23.0oz |
29.0oz |
34.0oz |
39.0oz |
44.0oz |
50.0oz |
56.0oz |
62.0oz |
67.0oz |
72.0oz |
77.0oz |
20wks |
24.0oz |
30.0oz |
35.0oz |
41.0oz |
46.0oz |
52.0oz |
58.0oz |
64.0oz |
70.0oz |
76.0oz |
81.0oz |
21wks |
25.0oz |
31.0oz |
36.0oz |
42.0oz |
48.0oz |
54.0oz |
60.0oz |
66.0oz |
72.0oz |
78.0oz |
84.0oz |
22wks |
25.0oz |
32.0oz |
37.0oz |
43.0oz |
49.0oz |
56.0oz |
62.0oz |
68.0oz |
74.0oz |
80.0oz |
86.0oz |
23wks |
26.0oz |
33.0oz |
38.0oz |
44.0oz |
50.0oz |
57.0oz |
64.0oz |
70.0oz |
76.0oz |
82.0oz |
88.0oz |
24wks |
26.0oz |
33.0oz |
39.0oz |
45.0oz |
51.0oz |
58.0oz |
65.0oz |
73.0oz |
78.0oz |
84.0oz |
90.0oz |
25wks |
27.0oz |
34.0oz |
40.0oz |
46.0oz |
52.0oz |
59.0oz |
66.0oz |
72.0oz |
79.0oz |
86.0oz |
93.0oz |
6mos |
27.0oz |
34.0oz |
40.0oz |
47.0oz |
53.0oz |
60.0oz |
67.0oz |
73.0oz |
80.0oz |
87.0oz |
94.0oz |
Adult |
2lb |
2.5lb |
3lb |
3.5lb |
4lb |
4.5lb |
5lb |
5.5lb |
6lb |
6.5lb |
7lb |
When in doubt another general rule is 3 times the weight at 8 weeks old or 2 times the weight at 12 weeks |
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